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 1 
 on: Today at 09:31:03 AM 
Started by DaarkPaws - Last post by DaarkPaws
G'day Guys,

Back again, I've been reading a tonne of threads on the forums that touch on this issue to a degree, but I'd like to make sure I'm pursuing the correct fix to this problem without bumping old topics or reading through 40 something pages of things that don't really pin point my particular problem as there are other factors  :P

(for everyone on the internet like me who couldn't figure out what the extra Black and White wire coming of the battery is for, its essentially the negative rail for the whole bikes electrical system by my reckoning, with the exception of those components earthed directly to the chassis) Refer to the wiring diagram: Hyosung GT650R Wiring Diagram

Background
First up, my GT650R has always had a bit of a hassle starting, I assumed it was attributed to carbon buildup / just heavy compression. Even with a brand new top quality battery, the bike will always struggle for the first 2 starting 'rotations' before it breaks the compression, kicks it over at normal stater motor speed, then all roars to life no worries.

I should also note that the bike (being black) runs critically hot while in the sun at idle at traffic lights, but that soon drops once the bike gets moving, the cooling fan is working, the cooling system is working, Fluid is high quality and within its useful lifetime. We've checked it several times to be sure. I hear its a common thing with the fully faired Hyosung 650's, so I'm not TOO worried.


The Issue
All the above considered, The bike refused to turn over the other day after parking at a servo for a while after a short ride, the starter responded the same way if would if the battery was running flat even though it was at full optimal charge. I tried to start it a few times, thinking it was being its usual temperamental self not wanting to break the high compression and turn over.

On the third start attempt, smoke, the smell of burning wire and I immediately halted trying to start the bike. Pulling off the seat, to discover the Black with White tracer wire (BW), the one that attaches to the battery Negative (not the thick black earth) had melted its sheathing. Something interesting occurred though, when I unplugged this (BW) wire the bike started fine, in fact better then fine, started first time, no hassle (I had to try, obviously needed to get the bike home)

So, this random issue has taken me to the point of strip down on the bike to check the WHOLE electrical harness to check to see if the wire has now melted though to any other wire in the harness.

I have started diagnostic at the charging system, the Stator plug (Yellow wires), (the one that connects the Stator to the Rectifier), has partially melted on one terminal in the plug. Taking this into account this plug being partially melted but still contacting with relatively low resistance, the Stator is putting out ~20V (AC) on the yellows when not connected to the other side of the plug, but once hooked up to the other side is around 13V :o (That doesn't sound right for the Stator), and the Rectifier is putting out ~13.50V - 13.60V at idle, with a decrease to 13.35V at 5K to 7K RPM. I'm not sure if this is due to poor connection at the Stator / Rectifier plug or a F**ked Rectifier / Stator, to be sure I have ordered a NEW rectifier and will be putting a new plug on / direct connection, but should I be looking at a new Stator too? (Those types of output voltages on the stator feel a little low i'd think, I assumed they would be closer to ~25 - 30V)

There is also the fact I recently converted the headlights on the bike to HID, this may play a role in 'drawing too much current' all at once during start up. As an aussie bike, the headlight is ALWAYS on, and therefor the HID (normal low beam) fires up as soon as you key on the bike, this might be putting TOO much load on that poor low gauge BW wire that seems also responsible for acting as the ground rail for the Starter Relay as well as several other key systems including the cooling fan.


My Questions
  • What caused the BW ground rail to melt?, how can I prevent this from happening again? (Is it the heat from the bike running so hot screwing with the integrity of the wires insulation?)
  • Should I yank the whole electrical harness and upgrade that BW wire to something of a ticker gauge? or at least inspect the whole harness for overload damage?
  • Is the Stator voltage TOO low? what should the output be, and can I determine this reading is correct before or only after I replace the rectifier?
  • Is the Rectifier drop from 13.50V to 13.35V at higher RPM's actaully a dead rectifier or just a shot Stator causing a 'carry on' effect at the Rectifier?
  • If the Stator is screwed, is it possible that's what was causing the bike to have SO MUCH trouble turning over during start (just coincidental that it shares the same symptoms as that of overly high compression issues)?


Cheers in advance!

 2 
 on: Today at 08:38:40 AM 
Started by Siwagod - Last post by UNdocab
Hi guys,
I used same suspension (2008 suzuki gladius bought second hand from Ebay). Directly swaped. There was no problem.
Even the softest setting was like a wood
My bike became unstable and wavy after 180km/h
I dont now maybe mine was not healty. i was really hopefull to solve the suspension problem forever. Because it is thicker than oem one.

Then turn back to OEM suspension  and everything is ok
But i know one day it will die :)

 3 
 on: Today at 07:55:59 AM 
Started by Siwagod - Last post by Siwagod
It's a direct swap. I haven't played with the settings yet.

 4 
 on: Today at 07:48:27 AM 
Started by Chris Rider - Last post by gaban84
Good day Hyo riders.

I'm blogger of Hyo bike. I would appreciate if you could drop by my blog at the link below:

http://www.hyosungblade.com/

Like the Facebook page below :)

http://www.facebook.com/hyosungbladerider

If you wish to provide any suggestions, please contact me via the blog site.

Thanks again and spread the word.

Chris


theres lots of FB Bladers page in malaysia:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/161782150545099/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/107643339412290/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/402553676504930/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/197862034260/?fref=ts

 5 
 on: Today at 05:31:18 AM 
Started by Ansan2000 - Last post by Ansan2000
I just came back from a 600km trip and had several occasions where the bike would lose all power under heavy acceleration. It is similar to hitting the rev limiter, but this was happening only around 7,000-8,000 RPMs. If I quickly switched into a higher gear, the stall would end and I could drive normally. This happened a little bit last year but was fixed by playing around with the clutch cable. I recently had the bike into the shop and my Korean mechanic said the clutch cable seemed properly adjusted. Due to language barriers, I couldn't really explain the problem very well.

The bike is only a little over 2 years old and has about 11,000km on it. I often ride in very heavy stop-and-go city traffic where I basically have to just feather the clutch in 1st gear and use the rear brake. Should I spring for the EBC clutch kit or do you guys think the problem might be due to something else? Thanks

 6 
 on: Today at 05:09:37 AM 
Started by Chris Rider - Last post by Chris Rider
Good day Hyo riders.

I'm blogger of Hyo bike. I would appreciate if you could drop by my blog at the link below:

http://www.hyosungblade.com/

Like the Facebook page below :)

http://www.facebook.com/hyosungbladerider

If you wish to provide any suggestions, please contact me via the blog site.

Thanks again and spread the word.

Chris

 7 
 on: Today at 05:08:55 AM 
Started by Siwagod - Last post by Ansan2000
I think I got the last cheap one off of Ebay. The bike it came off of had 23,000 miles on it, but they said the shock wasn't leaking and looked to be in good condition. Even if it's crap, I'd only be out $30. I'd keep checking each day to see if something becomes available. Good luck-

For the guys that have made the swap, what pre-load and damping settings are you using? Also, is it a direct swap or are some modifications needed to make it fit? Thanks

 8 
 on: Today at 05:08:12 AM 
Started by Chris Rider - Last post by Chris Rider
Good day Hyo riders.

I'm blogger of Hyo bike. I would appreciate if you could drop by my blog at the link below:

http://www.hyosungblade.com/

Like the Facebook page below :)

http://www.facebook.com/hyosungbladerider

If you wish to provide any suggestions, please contact me via the blog site.

Thanks again and spread the word.

Chris

 9 
 on: Today at 04:54:30 AM 
Started by DirectorSasuke - Last post by DaBigMac
Maybe it SHOULD be running rich. Didn't you say it should be 3 turns in a different thread? Try it at 2 turns perhaps? Something this changeable is just dieing to be experimented with.

 10 
 on: Today at 04:45:23 AM 
Started by Codeh002 - Last post by DaBigMac
Mine is similar to yours. Roughly +9~10%.

Why is this bad? It's actually a legal requirement.

DBM

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