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  • October 31, 2014, 08:34:53 AM
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 on: Today at 08:10:44 AM 
Started by PoshDug - Last post by PoshDug
Did you put all the spacers back in place when you installed the wheel?

Yeah 99% sure as it was only the speedo cable on one side and bearing cover on the other.. Going by FIG 37 of the parts manual. Plus the bearings were not removed.. Only dropped the wheel and removed forks. Can't see anything jumping out as an extra spacer. Taking it to the shop Tuesday and getting the pros to do oil and seals for me. Hopefully they can remedy the dodgy caliper also. Lesson learned!!

 on: Today at 08:07:41 AM 
Started by DaBigMac - Last post by DaBigMac
Well that was anti-climactic.

It works. ..but as expected, it's damn heavy. Not any heavier than it was with a cable, but a lot heavier than other bikes I have tried.

I did this:

1. Cut clevis away from an old cable and filed the little nut thingy they provided with the slave cylinder to fit inside the clevis.

2. The slave cylinder comes with three nuts (the one farthest in, doesn't appear to be removable without excessive force), I removed one of those nuts and fitted the clevis on with the filed nut screwed in so that it is flush with the rod inside. This gave me the ideal reach to the clutch actuator arm. *Note: See how the threaded part of the slave cylinder is of a smaller diameter than the metal tip of the clutch cable? The threaded part just fits into where the original cable sat and the rod is passed through where the cable was originally located.

3. Put the slave cylinder into place. *Note: I think it wise to test fit with the banjo bolts loose then tighten everything BEFORE putting it in place, because tightening once everything is together is damn hard.

See how the rod passes through the cut part where the cable is supposed to go? The threaded part of the slave cylinder just passes through the original hole and the nut that you left behind, butts up against the crank case housing.

4. As I am a big fan of their products, I once again used Venhill lines to make the fit exactly how I wanted it.

5. Installed a single banjo pressure switch to take the place of the clutch safety switch and wired it into the original points by snipping the end off the stock wiring coming out of the clutch perch and using that on the end of the wiring on the pressure switch.

Total time: 3 hours.

In summary:

While I am thrilled with the result of the brakes, I am not happy with how heavy the clutch is. I feel I will revisit this in the future with different clutch MC that uses a smaller piston diameter.

If I could do this all again, I would not use the levers that I bought. I regret now not buying the Brembo knock-offs and my assumption that the levers that I bought would use the same piston diameters that the clone levers did. See, the ad for the ones I bought didn't specify what diameter they were, while the clone ones did. The clone ones were also half the price! Hind-sight is always 20/20, or so they say. Maybe the cheapo MCs would have leaked or not had the feel that these one's do. ...but I think that armed with what I know, I would buy the clone levers if I could.


 on: Today at 05:06:01 AM 
Started by KHARN - Last post by KHARN
Thanks guys. Most that see the bike live are instantly pleased with the look. For some it might be a little retro, but it does suit the styling.
Not to mention, she "Lights up" at dusk / night.
Very noticeable and attracts positive attention.
Safety is key - great looks is a bonus.

 on: Today at 01:00:17 AM 
Started by CgrBkr - Last post by CgrBkr
Now I am even a bit more confused.

I was not looking forward to having to figure out the electrical.  I am not even sure how to use a multimeter (but I am sure there is a video on youtube for it) so I feared I was in over my head and may end up with a 500lb paper weight in my garage.

So this evening, I had a bit of time and temperatures in my garage were tolerable so I removed the lower faring.  I inserted the key and turned it to the on position.  The headlights still would not come on at all.  I also checked all the of the blinkers and tail lights.  The only blinker that did not work was the front left blinker.  All the others ones seemed fine.  I tried to start it and it just did the same thing still, and the sulphur like smell was back.  I was really bummed and began to inspect the connections and I just made sure they were well connected. 

I tried again and still got nothing.

I figure I was going to have to take the upper faring off.  I starting convincing myself that rewiring the back was a doable project for a total novice.  I would just have to take it slow and make sure I got tons of pictures.

Well, as I was turning the handlebars to get the left blinker off and I bumped the pass button.  The highbeam came on.  It was the first time since I let it run too long that I saw the headlight come on.  I was a bit optimistic.

I decided to try to start it one more time.  I heard a click from the back of the bike and I figured it might be the fuel pump priming (just a guess).  But as I tried to start it, it started to turn over and the muffler popped for a second.

I opened up the choke and turned the throttle a bit, and tried again.

This time it fired right up.  It struggled for a bit but it stayed on.  I noticed too the headlinghts were this time.

I let it run for a bit and I checked the oil.  It seemed low so I added some oil to it.

I took it out for a quick spin in the neighborhood and went through a few shifts and it seemed fine.  the only concern was the green N was still on during the ride. 

Now I am not even sure if anything is wrong with it now.  But I suspect something is still not right.  The odd thing is that it sounded quieter and seemed livelier than before.

That smell is still there but now it seems fainter.

I want to think this is a good ended to a careless moment on my part but is there something else I should consider or check?

Thank you in advance for any help.

 on: Today at 12:56:49 AM 
Started by Jay Dog - Last post by Jay Dog
Thanks man!   

 on: Today at 12:48:40 AM 
Started by YoungRider - Last post by Khaosie34
Probably a H3 55w, but I think that changed to a H1 at some point. Mine's H3 on a '08 bike.

Don't need to dismantle the front end if you're replacing it with a halogen. Just need some patience. I've replaced the bulb twice without taking anything off, but it'll be coming apart when I change to HID.

 on: Today at 12:39:40 AM 
Started by xnowxforeverx - Last post by Cloud
I've put too much into my bike to have it trashed in an accident, and I like the idea of a hard steel cage. I'm definitely interested in this kind of thing. I have the 125R (same frame as the 250) so fitment is different from the 650R. Also I have really high exhaust silencers, one on each side, which would need to be worked around. MotoEPC have stopped making the pannier brackets that I need, so I'm looking to have someone make up some custom stuff. I know a couple of ironmongers and blacksmiths, but I haven't gone ahead and asked them to make anything for me, as I'm not sure they have the engineering know-how to make the kind of stuff I'm after. Clearly, you do.

 on: October 30, 2014, 11:11:13 PM 
Started by mitowarrior - Last post by mitowarrior
Hi, I've just joined this site and I'm just wondering if anyone is from Wigan area in northwest of the UK?

I'm from Hindley Green, wigan area. WN2.

 on: October 30, 2014, 10:40:40 PM 
Started by Ninja - Last post by Cloud
Or just a ****ing in-line tap with a pipe in and a pipe out?

My bike instantly breaks any fuel tap that's put on it, so even with no vac to open the tap, fuel pisses out when you pull the hose. I've had a brand new tap that was working when it was fitted, and then broken after a 4 mile/5 minute test ride. Not sure what's going on there, but even with the weight of the fuel in the tank pushing down into the system, the floats close things down, and fuel doesn't drain into my cylinders.

Fuel tap is not the problem, but it would solve it.

 on: October 30, 2014, 09:47:52 PM 
Started by SuicidalSheep - Last post by Cloud
Have the whole bike gyro-stabilised. Make all controls electronically operated. Make all electronically-operated systems remote-controlled. Fit a pair of GoPro to the front with a live stereo-scopic remote monitoring feed. Connect remote monitoring feed to a computer, and connect computer to an Oculus Rift.

Enjoy your remote-controlled virtual-reality GT650 experience. Win first prize.

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