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 1 
 on: August 03, 2020, 11:37:35 PM 
Started by Hyo5ung - Last post by Hyo5ung
Checked out your site. Nice work.

The correct magneto arrived and she runs again. Might need a new TPS though, she starts to idle high intermittently once warm. I find the voltage and resistance values change pretty randomly when trying to adjust it, so may be time for a replacement. But am going to be selling her to focus on my next...

On a side note, I picked up a Z750 a month or 2 back and am loving it. I do have a soft spot for the F1 harmony of the inline 4 after 7500rpm. Not to mention the whiplash and the battle to keep the front wheel on the tarmac when I (need to) wring the throttle ;) haha

Thanks for the help. It's nice to have reassurance when spending several hundred dollars on parts that may (or not) solve a problem. Appreciated it :)

 2 
 on: August 02, 2020, 09:16:54 PM 
Started by secretelephant - Last post by secretelephant
I just cut the starter button wires, and attached them to a autostore pushbutton switch I had lying around. TBH the hardest bit was trying to mount the switch as it really designed to go into a hole in a dashboard.

However it all up and running and works fine! 8)

 3 
 on: August 01, 2020, 10:50:37 PM 
Started by Formenos - Last post by folred6
Did you ever find the problem?

 4 
 on: July 29, 2020, 01:13:39 AM 
Started by poo007.heidarzadeh - Last post by GhostInTheHyo
My bike missfire at first gear low speed like 20 or second gear 50 is the same thing happened to you the missfire are miner and happens every now and then


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

check the TPS trottle position sensor. Could be that.

p1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYJJLE0ZFDI
p2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSyXvv-FGdQ

 5 
 on: July 29, 2020, 01:10:15 AM 
Started by de2ourr - Last post by GhostInTheHyo
Could be TPS, I had sluggish poping acceleration when engine HOT between 2000-5000rpms and it was the TPS.

you need voltimeter, two needles, basic tools and patience

Here is how to do it:
p1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYJJLE0ZFDI
p2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSyXvv-FGdQ

 6 
 on: July 29, 2020, 12:50:29 AM 
Started by Lassen88 - Last post by GhostInTheHyo
Good day All,

I am new here and from SA.

I also have a GT650R 2014 model.
I have a similar problem.

My bike runs 100% when cold.
After riding about 15 to 20 min it starts with the problem.
On pull off from 2000 to 4000 rpm it will splutter and not have any power but if you clutch it and ref past 4000 and leave the clutch it will be fine.
Stop at a robot and ref it a bit it sounds like it is only running on 1 cylinder.
But it only happens when the bike is hot and only on low RPM below 4000. So you have to give it ref's to pull away.


The first problem was the charging.
The 3 way plug melted from the stater to the rectifier. Then I noticed it is not charging at full capacity.
But used the bike as it was still charging at 13.5 volt.

One morning I was late and rode it a bit hard then it started with this issue.
Thought it was the stater so replaced the stater but the problem is still there.

So any thoughts?

Hey!
This happened to my gt650r, EXACTLY as you describe it. And the SOLUTION to my problem was calibrating the TPS (trottle position sensor)
you can do it yourself with little patience, two needles, two wires, and a voltimeter.
The thing in short is that the TPS is bad calibrated so is sending wrong info to the ECU therefore the ECU is giving bad fuel injection, the TPS can decalibrate off optimum values with the heat. So I'm gonna send you the video tutorial that helped me.

IMPORTANT : To calibrate the TPS you have to unscrew the bolt and move it slightly then tight the bolt without moving the sensor, this could the challenging because the bolt is difficult to reach, and even minors movements change the values. With the voltimeter you would have to check the trottle at 0% must be minimum --> 1.12v (mine was 1.02v decalibrated) and 100% --> somthing like 4.8v.  then you have to go ride the bike and heat the engine if the error persist try again increasing the margins. like 1.18v or something, I did that and the problem went away forever.

IMPORTANT2: the voltage you are going to read, only reads when you turn the key and activate ON the kill switch (when the fuelpump sounds).

OK so here is the video, GOOD LUCK:
par1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYJJLE0ZFDI
part2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSyXvv-FGdQ





 7 
 on: July 29, 2020, 12:29:32 AM 
Started by kvshtucker - Last post by kvshtucker
My shifter is loose and doesn't feel like it's ever engaged in a gear.

I will look at other post in regards to the battery
afternoon,
your batt thing sounds like it isnt charging, there are a few posts on here about it. you can up grade it.
your shifter may have a problem if its been hit but there is some adjustment in it
 

 8 
 on: July 28, 2020, 11:53:32 PM 
Started by Mike on the Rock - Last post by GhostInTheHyo
Today trip. Some audio testing to capture the exhaust sound, I have some things yet to try out for better fidelity

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rabW11x1Q10




 Cheers from Chile!

 9 
 on: July 28, 2020, 12:58:56 PM 
Started by makenzie71 - Last post by albertinhouston
naaa......
Apparently he didn't like the way I sent him the PP money. I didn't click a certain button(twice) of what ever.
...and after 2 months of waiting I sent him a message that was too late(12:30am).

 so he refunded me the $.


 10 
 on: July 28, 2020, 11:01:43 AM 
Started by kvshtucker - Last post by Swifty
afternoon,
your batt thing sounds like it isnt charging, there are a few posts on here about it. you can up grade it.
your shifter may have a problem if its been hit but there is some adjustment in it
 

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