Back again, I've been reading a tonne of threads on the forums that touch on this issue to a degree, but I'd like to make sure I'm pursuing the correct fix to this problem without bumping old topics or reading through 40 something pages of things that don't really pin point my particular problem as there are other factors
(for everyone on the internet like me who couldn't figure out what the extra Black and White wire coming of the battery is for, its essentially the negative rail for the whole bikes electrical system by my reckoning, with the exception of those components earthed directly to the chassis) Refer to the wiring diagram: Hyosung GT650R Wiring Diagram
First up, my GT650R has always had a bit of a hassle starting, I assumed it was attributed to carbon buildup / just heavy compression. Even with a brand new top quality battery, the bike will always struggle for the first 2 starting 'rotations' before it breaks the compression, kicks it over at normal stater motor speed, then all roars to life no worries.
I should also note that the bike (being black) runs critically hot while in the sun at idle at traffic lights, but that soon drops once the bike gets moving, the cooling fan is working, the cooling system is working, Fluid is high quality and within its useful lifetime. We've checked it several times to be sure. I hear its a common thing with the fully faired Hyosung 650's, so I'm not TOO worried.
All the above considered, The bike refused to turn over the other day after parking at a servo for a while after a short ride, the starter responded the same way if would if the battery was running flat even though it was at full optimal charge. I tried to start it a few times, thinking it was being its usual temperamental self not wanting to break the high compression and turn over.
On the third start attempt, smoke, the smell of burning wire and I immediately halted trying to start the bike. Pulling off the seat, to discover the Black with White tracer wire (BW), the one that attaches to the battery Negative (not the thick black earth) had melted its sheathing. Something interesting occurred though, when I unplugged this (BW) wire the bike started fine, in fact better then fine, started first time, no hassle (I had to try, obviously needed to get the bike home)
So, this random issue has taken me to the point of strip down on the bike to check the WHOLE electrical harness to check to see if the wire has now melted though to any other wire in the harness.
I have started diagnostic at the charging system, the Stator plug (Yellow wires), (the one that connects the Stator to the Rectifier), has partially melted on one terminal in the plug. Taking this into account this plug being partially melted but still contacting with relatively low resistance, the Stator is putting out ~20V (AC) on the yellows when not connected to the other side of the plug, but once hooked up to the other side is around 13V (That doesn't sound right for the Stator), and the Rectifier is putting out ~13.50V - 13.60V at idle, with a decrease to 13.35V at 5K to 7K RPM. I'm not sure if this is due to poor connection at the Stator / Rectifier plug or a F**ked Rectifier / Stator, to be sure I have ordered a NEW rectifier and will be putting a new plug on / direct connection, but should I be looking at a new Stator too? (Those types of output voltages on the stator feel a little low i'd think, I assumed they would be closer to ~25 - 30V)
There is also the fact I recently converted the headlights on the bike to HID, this may play a role in 'drawing too much current' all at once during start up. As an aussie bike, the headlight is ALWAYS on, and therefor the HID (normal low beam) fires up as soon as you key on the bike, this might be putting TOO much load on that poor low gauge BW wire that seems also responsible for acting as the ground rail for the Starter Relay as well as several other key systems including the cooling fan.
- What caused the BW ground rail to melt?, how can I prevent this from happening again? (Is it the heat from the bike running so hot screwing with the integrity of the wires insulation?)
- Should I yank the whole electrical harness and upgrade that BW wire to something of a ticker gauge? or at least inspect the whole harness for overload damage?
- Is the Stator voltage TOO low? what should the output be, and can I determine this reading is correct before or only after I replace the rectifier?
- Is the Rectifier drop from 13.50V to 13.35V at higher RPM's actaully a dead rectifier or just a shot Stator causing a 'carry on' effect at the Rectifier?
- If the Stator is screwed, is it possible that's what was causing the bike to have SO MUCH trouble turning over during start (just coincidental that it shares the same symptoms as that of overly high compression issues)?
Cheers in advance!