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 1 
 on: Today at 07:42:17 PM 
Started by D0ugyB0y - Last post by D0ugyB0y
my rear brake locked up last week due to pads being forced onto the brake disk, rode home at 15mph full revs, stripped the caliper yesterday as i thought the pistons had seized in the caliper, cleaned and reseated the pistons which lead to me having no pressure on the rear brake pedal which left me trying to bleed the brake with no avail.
I decided to take the banjo bolt off the top of the rear master cylinder to see if the fluid was being pushed out from the top which it wasn't, I came to the conclusion the the piston in the cylinder had seized.
What i did was use and allen key to push the piston back down then pressed the brake pedal, repeated the process a couple more times until it was moving freely, connected it back up and vac bled the rear brake and it did the trick, so if your having trouble bleeding your rear brake check the master cylinder 1st to stop you wasting time :)

 2 
 on: Today at 06:35:51 PM 
Started by alazar14 - Last post by alazar14
Any other major issues that I haven't explored in detail that I should be made aware of?

 3 
 on: Today at 06:12:31 PM 
Started by friedcpu - Last post by Billrock

In order to understand what the flameout wire is you have to think like a Chinese person. Flameout is a translated word from Chinese to English. What does flame out mean to us? It means to have something that is burning to stop burning. What does that on a motorcycle? The kill switch!!
The flameout switch is the kill switch.

 4 
 on: Today at 05:10:05 PM 
Started by alazar14 - Last post by AJC650
Side stand switch is located behind the stand, and stops the engine if you try to go into gear with stand still down - I would have thought it's a problem which would not happen until the bike is a little older (mine happened at 5 year mark, and even then was intermittent) so unlikely to bother warranty.

There is an easy fix on here if it is misaligned, or just keep it clean.  Or bypass by crossing a couple of wires under the seat....then remember not to pull off with the stand down! ;)

 5 
 on: Today at 04:58:30 PM 
Started by lilgodwin - Last post by lilgodwin
Cool deal.  Thanks.  So far things seem fine, but I'm having her keep an eye on it and let me know any codes that show.  I'll be sure to look that up in the meantime.

 6 
 on: Today at 04:45:51 PM 
Started by Codeh002 - Last post by Codeh002
Hey Guys,

I thought I had fixed this issue but it seems to be rearing its ugly head again.

When I have my bike off but the key turned so all the lights are on, everything works just as expected, there is no jumping or the tach. Once I start the motorcycle and I am idling at 1500 rpm. If I turn on a turn signal, the tach will jump to 3000-4000 rpm and then go back down to 1500 and however long I leave the signal on it will not jump again unless I cancel the signal and start again.

If I have the bike running at around 6000 rpm, and I use my turn signal the tach will jump up to 9000 and then bounce between 6000-9000 until I cancel the signal, then it will go back to 6000 and be normal.

I thought it was the Stator, so I tested it and it came up as fine, I replaced my rectifier because It was failing tests. I thought it might be a old and damaged battery so I replaced that. When I start the bike I get 14.2 v and when I turn things on the volts never drop below 12.5 so from my understanding I am not being starved for power. Also the bike never hiccups or surges or feels different this is purely electrical.

A few monthes ago I said "**** it" and ripped most of the panels off and wrapped them in eletrical tape and cleaned the connections, this seemed to fix it for about 3 weeks. But now it is back :\

I have read that this would be a "ground issue"

So my question is this..

What wires should I be testing / how to do figure out exactly which wire is the culprit?


 7 
 on: Today at 04:43:15 PM 
Started by Greenhornhyo - Last post by Mnblues33
Glad to hear you are ok. I had a lady in an suv do the same to me last month. Turn from middle lane, skipping turn lane. I was not seriously injured and her insurance paid for everything.

Maybe people should have to get a special liscence and testing for driving large truck or suvs. Liscence testing in the us is way too relaxed. If you show up and cry a little when you fail, you get your driving liscence. Or have everyone retest every 5 years.

My grandpa can't see 8 ft in front of him, has his liscence still and drives all over. It scares me.

Good luck with the rebuild and ride safe.

 8 
 on: Today at 04:11:51 PM 
Started by alazar14 - Last post by alazar14
Someone here mentioned the 250 being quite reliable minus the side stand switch, I'm not all that bike savvy so can someone explain to me what the side stand switch is, and if it is covered under warranty or not? Also, I remember reading that the starter could be an issue on these bikes, is that still the case on the GV250 2012?

 9 
 on: Today at 02:25:43 PM 
Started by stuzo - Last post by stuzo
I never use it had strip master cylinder but caliper is beyond repair mot booked for morning luckly fellow member samjam has found one

 10 
 on: Today at 12:42:40 PM 
Started by stuzo - Last post by AJC650
Can't help Stuzo, but strangely enough my back brake was binding a bit last night when I went out - time to strip and service again...!

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