korider.com | Hyosung Motorcycle Owners Forum

korider.com | Hyosung Motorcycle Owners Forum

  • April 29, 2017, 02:23:03 PM
  • Welcome, Guest
Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search


Welcome to Korider.com!

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
 on: Today at 02:02:02 PM 
Started by WoofTheCat - Last post by WoofTheCat
Hey everyone.

I've purchased a 2008 GT250 Comet last year around fall, it's already a fuel injected modell. Anyways, it wasn't working, the rear cylinder was completely trashed. Bought the new parts, my dad put it together (worry not, he is a car mechanic, things can't go that wrong). The engine is now seems to be flawless, but the bike has some bad clutch issues.
When I took it to a test ride, I couldn't shift up to 2nd gear. Took it back home, we've adjusted the cable. Now I was able to shift up properly, but in 3rd gear and over 50 km/h the clutch slipped, rpm skyrocketed and the bike slowed down. So I downshifted, turned around and tried to get home. After about 500 meters, in 2nd gear and at 45 km/h the clutch slipped again, and I had to downshift once again. We did another adjustment, but it didn't really change a thing, so we took it apart, turned out the springs are below the service limit.
I've already ordered a new set of springs, they are on their way. On the other hand, my dad suspects that the springs alone couldn't cause this. The driver and driven plates also got measured, they are fine and reach the standard limit.

So my question would be: What else should we look for?
Also, can somebody please tell me the correct number of driver and driven plates? I think currently there are 5 driver and 4 driven plates in the clutch basket. I've tried searching for an answer with no luck so far. Some diagrams show 5-4, yet sets are being sold as 6 driver and 5 driven, and I'm confused.

Let me know if you need any more information, and any help is appreciated.

 on: Today at 12:57:05 PM 
Started by Monstercrave - Last post by Monstercrave
37 people and no one knows where to get 2015 fairings?

 on: Today at 08:26:31 AM 
Started by Monstercrave - Last post by Monstercrave
I need a upper right fairing for a 2015 hyosung, the fairing that is directly next to the reservoir for the radiator

Anyone know where I can get them?? I'm from Adelaide

 on: Today at 06:14:43 AM 
Started by TheEhTeam - Last post by TheEhTeam
I'm not sure how some parts may affect performance but could it be rectifier related? Or perhaps a bad vacuum somewhere along the lines? As stated I can temporarily get past the lurching by revving then engine up which could be increasing voltage to spark plugs or parts and helping or adding fuel and the carbs are running lean?? Is there anything that would cause carbs to run lean while hot only. Could a bad charge appear when engine/parts are hot and resistance is increased causing misfires?

One more possible idea that could be overlooked I guess. I'm using CR8E spark plugs. Should I perhaps switch to CR7E?
Although both spark plugs currently installed are very very new and they look mint and seem to be in a healthy condition showing neither rich or lean; however one of the two happens to have a very slight amount of white dust on the outside tip of the ground electrode. I read that this can mean it's too hot?

 on: April 28, 2017, 10:23:42 PM 
Started by BigBro - Last post by umop-ǝpisdn
Pretty sure that you'll be the first.

The method that is the present standard is to attach a pair of spotlights to the base of the fork stanchions. You will find an excellent DIY write-up by Hylife somewhere on this forum, as well as an explaination as to why you are better off using spotlights instead of floodlights.

Let me know if you need help with adding a relay to power it/them. Forgive me if you already know what a relay is; It's not my intention to be condescending. A relay can used as a means to remove the power demands for a device from the wiring loom, and yet make it activate when something common is turned on.

i.e. you might want to turn the LED lights on whenever the headlight is on, but you do NOT want the LED lights to draw power from the already overloaded headlight wiring.

Relay wiring pins: (There are only 4 pins, but they have strange names)

Pin 30 - This is the main power feed for the relay. Attach this directly to the battery using a nice, thick 15A wire.

Pin 85 - This is the earth for the relay. This is not the earth for the LED lights. That is a separate thing. This doesn't need to be a thick wire, as the relay uses very very little power (almost nothing) to operate.

Pin 86 - This is the relay's input signal. When there is power on this wire, the relay turns 'on'. If there is no power on this wire, the relay will be in the off position. This is what makes relays so useful. Even though it is wired directly to battery power, the device attached is only ON when there is power to this wire. This should be attached to the circuit you want to activate the relay. i.e. the headlight power wire, or perhaps the tail light. This does NOT need to be a heavy gauge of wire. Thin is ok.

Pin 87 - This is the high power wire that goes to the +'ve on your lights. This should be heavy 15A wire.

That takes care of the +'ve side for the lights, you then need to wire in a -'ve. Probably best to just earth to the chassis. Make sure though that you have a wire going from the battery -'ve to the chassis somewhere also.

This setup will 100% remove the demands of the LED light(s) from the already fragile wiring loom.

 on: April 28, 2017, 09:34:01 AM 
Started by HaiHyoGuy - Last post by Rezzy
It will look good in the beginning but wait until you start getting rub marks and chips.
If you have a chance, next time you see a car  that's been dipped. Look around the door handles, front bar and you'll see what I mean.

I'm a spray painter by trade so maybe I'm trained to look for perfection or find imperfections...

 on: April 28, 2017, 09:19:23 AM 
Started by 2008hyo650 - Last post by Rezzy
I'm also having heating issues with my gt650 :-( I dumped and replaced the coolant and oil, bled the system many times with short rides and repeat top ups. I ride about 55-60km each way to work, soon as I stop in traffic the temp goes to max with the flashing signal and red f1 light comes on. The fan does not come on until I kill the engine which I find is weird.
Today I heated it up then unplugged the fan sensor and put a wire between the circuit and sure enough it came on and went from flashing down to 3 bars

I've got a few switches laying around so I could just install it and flick it on once I'm hit traffic.

I'll see if I can get this sensor locally tho but other than that any other suggestions to take on board?

 on: April 28, 2017, 07:16:19 AM 
Started by TheEhTeam - Last post by umop-ǝpisdn
The symptom is a perfect match for a bad coil, but I really don't know what to say, two sets of bad coils?? Seems unlikely.

 on: April 28, 2017, 05:50:32 AM 
Started by TheEhTeam - Last post by TheEhTeam
Hey there, so an update and a query.
My "new" used SV650 coils showed up today so I installed them after work. The boots that came with them were not corroded and looked in way better condition than my Hyo ones. So I took her out for a test ride through some back roads, down the highway and then back home. I want to say I felt a for sure power increase as well as the idle was very steady. However once again riding home on the short bit of back roads the problem arouse and started kicking around again unless I throttled well above 7k any gear. So perhaps are my "new" used ignition coils also faulty or can there be any other possible explanation?

 on: April 28, 2017, 04:42:17 AM 
Started by LnchBox - Last post by umop-ǝpisdn
Fixed the multi post bit.

I reckon the battery is quite possibly naffed.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10