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  • January 19, 2017, 01:51:56 PM
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 1 
 on: Today at 12:10:47 PM 
Started by usmcobra - Last post by Hylife
I bet you used a cheapo diode based RR and not a MOSFET one.
If so then the cheapo RR is also failing. Replace it before the battery gets cooked.

 2 
 on: Today at 10:58:39 AM 
Started by usmcobra - Last post by Bg1972
I've done the charge wire mod and fitted a new regulator. A few weeks, great. But now I'm seeing running volts well above 16v. Have I got more trouble brewing here?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 3 
 on: Today at 10:11:26 AM 
Started by Christmas - Last post by zero
Hey Guys sorry to break in but isnt it as simple to spray some starterfluid into the cylinders ? If
it starts it must be in the fuel section.

Send with TakaTalp


 4 
 on: January 18, 2017, 11:31:28 PM 
Started by srf1986 - Last post by Cloud

Yeah, mine has that.
It's got a plastic T-joint for the vac hoses so that one can go to the vac switch.

 5 
 on: January 18, 2017, 01:54:02 PM 
Started by srf1986 - Last post by srf1986
the vacuum pipe normally comes from the inlet rubber upto the tank, However on the Early GT models there is only the 1 nipple on the inlet rubber and not the second for the vacuum pipe!

 6 
 on: January 18, 2017, 01:39:54 PM 
Started by srf1986 - Last post by Cloud

They should all have the vac switch.

Use with or without. Both work.

 7 
 on: January 18, 2017, 12:23:20 PM 
Started by aLekz - Last post by Hylife
Those readings seem ok but you need to try it again after the battery has been fully charged with an external smart charger and then after sitting (without riding) for a day. If the battery is failing it will not hold its charge.
Sometimes it is the charging system and sometimes it can be a bad battery.

 8 
 on: January 18, 2017, 12:17:17 PM 
Started by Christmas - Last post by Hylife
Check your oil level.
If your fuel has been leaking into the cylinders then it will also leak past the piston rings and into the sump/crankcase.
If the crankcase is full of fuel it not only destroys your oil but also may present a heavy load for the engine to crank through.

Bike perfectly upright and look into the oil window on the lower right side of engine. Must be between H and L

 9 
 on: January 18, 2017, 11:51:31 AM 
Started by srf1986 - Last post by srf1986
Hi There,




I wonder if anyone can help. I have an GT125 Comet 2006 which needed a new fuel tank. I brought one off ebay and when it turned up its the vacuum fuel cock style from a 2008 GT125R - The old tank was a gravity feed so doesn't have the vacuum pipe. Do you know if you can convert the tank to fit. Surely someone else has had this problem. Any help of advise would be appreciated?



 10 
 on: January 18, 2017, 09:51:46 AM 
Started by Christmas - Last post by MikkyD
Hylife, it does crank with the plugs out but it is completely dry inside the cylinders? Can it still be hydrolocked?

And the dash does cut out when I crank it and the + does get hot.

So it's still a toss up between hydrolock and starter based on you guys opinion haha

I thought about it went with a second hand starter just in case. Be careful you don't fry something, it gets pretty hot. One good thing happened, my speedo was at 100,000k by the time I had worked out the problem and replaced the starter motor my speedo was down to 230k

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