korider.com | Hyosung Motorcycle Owners Forum

korider.com | Hyosung Motorcycle Owners Forum

  • May 30, 2015, 03:09:17 PM
  • Welcome, Guest
Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search

News:

Welcome to Korider.com!

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
 1 
 on: Today at 02:53:31 PM 
Started by ljo - Last post by ljo
So basically, if you get the connector kit for hyosung that I posted above, you still need to splice neg and pos wiring direct to the battery. I'm going to email roadstercycle and suggest he does this for the kit.

 2 
 on: Today at 01:34:59 PM 
Started by cameronda - Last post by cameronda
I thought the tip over switch would act as a kill switch
I keep the 2010 coils as they were easier to mount, a bit lazy
The 2013 coils are wired differently and mount slightly different
Fuel is what I think the problem is
The fuel line is clear, from the point it hits the injectors, I do not know

 3 
 on: Today at 12:42:43 PM 
Started by whereami - Last post by Birdman1985
Thanks @hylife. I am only curious as I emailed the company that make the pipes above and they said they are not straight bolt up system and nothing needs to be done. Surely a custom set made very similar should fundamentally be the same.

 4 
 on: Today at 12:31:57 PM 
Started by cameronda - Last post by humanballistics
Clutch has to be in? Is it in gear?
The tip over switch would stop it from trying to go like the kill switch does...it obviously isn't getting air fuel and spark in the right mix to get ignition...why did you keep the 2010 coils? Have you tried it with the 13 ones?

sent using tapatalk on my magic oblong.


 5 
 on: Today at 12:20:13 PM 
Started by cameronda - Last post by cameronda
G'day out there
Great forum
Now I have the same issue as others have had before me, but trying to narrow it down to some workable problem solving gets harder as I read more

Now from the start
I have had a fetish for a yellow GT650r, they just do it
I brought a clean 2010 650 frame, never registered.
Brought a 2013 gt650r EFI from the auctions, a runner. See where I'm going with this
Just about every panel had some damage, so I found a complete earlier panel work and tank. Red. Paint can change colour, so no worries.
During the change over the red did look good, so the dream changed a bit. Red is faster any way.
OK pretty straight forward.
After the change over the beast does not want to fire up
It spins hard and has good spark, has to have clutch in.
Has the F1 flashing.
I crossed over the connection in the harness at the rear of the bike, no error code
I retained the 2010 coils, fuel flows from the tank, so pump works.

So it is the fall over switch, what is the best way to work around it?
How can I check that the injectors are working? I may have this concept wrong
Any other ideas would be great,

Now be gentle as this is the most modern bike  I have, all the electronics I need to get my head around. And some of the abbreviations.
I read three pages on the AIS before I found it was not the Australian Institute of Sport

Any way thank you in advance
I know the knowledge is here, I just have to have it input this end
Thanks again in advance
Dave

 6 
 on: Today at 10:02:27 AM 
Started by Mike on the Rock - Last post by humanballistics
But aren't there two that fit the bigger hole?

sent using tapatalk on my magic oblong.


 7 
 on: Today at 06:40:35 AM 
Started by Mike on the Rock - Last post by solarsea
You don't get to pick I think, the opening size is different (smaller hole for the old one, larger for the new).

 8 
 on: Today at 04:15:34 AM 
Started by Mike on the Rock - Last post by Rangerscott
So....for us thatll stay will the oem type, should we stay with the old style?

 9 
 on: Today at 02:18:37 AM 
Started by kbotk89 - Last post by humanballistics
You can only have a go in the end...it'll either work or it won't...it seems from roehr's work that the frame can take the punishment...i have an inkling one day to see if the swing arm can be mounted off the back of the engine like the duc's have :P

sent using tapatalk on my magic oblong.


 10 
 on: Today at 01:21:19 AM 
Started by Mike on the Rock - Last post by humanballistics
316 stainless will do the job...look up stainless on the web..there are some comprehensive breakdowns in type...general rule is that the harder it is the less corrosion resistant...i don't think the parts inside the engine will see enough moisture or oxygen to need to be stainless...just the outer plate and bolt. And 316 will do that job comfortably

sent using tapatalk on my magic oblong.


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10