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 91 
 on: June 20, 2018, 05:40:19 AM 
Started by madhatter - Last post by umop-ǝpisdn
The reg/rec is the most common issue with these bikes.

OK, so parts list:

Go to http://roadstercycle.com and get a 'super kit'. $130

Go to a Radioshack type place, or maybe Harbour Freight and get some 10 or 12 gauge automotive wire. 10 gauge is thicker than 12 gauge, but it's also harder to use. It might be called 4mm squared wire. Get around 4 feet of red and 4 feet of black wire. Also get 6 or so 'ring terminals' with a 6mm hole in them (they are usually yellow). Ask the person there if they have a crimping tool to suit that ring terminal.

At a hardware store, you want to get two bolts. M6 thick x 25mm long.

That's it for your shopping list. The rest is simple work and we can give you instructions, step by step.

 92 
 on: June 20, 2018, 05:35:05 AM 
Started by madhatter - Last post by spit051261
If it was me , I would replace the regulator (get a good one) , the stator (same goes) , I  also would rewire everything to do with this circuit with larger cable (where possible )and fit good connectors and I would even be looking at my battery as well as it's main wiring (the big cables  ;)).
Pay someone to do it and it's going to cost a lot .
You are better off sourcing everything yourself and doing it yourself .
It's not rocket science and you will get help here  :)
Think of all this trouble as an experience that will help you in the future and when it's done and working OK , you can sit back and say , "I sorted that out".
BTW , I think I would be looking for another "mechanic" if I were you .

 93 
 on: June 20, 2018, 05:10:51 AM 
Started by madhatter - Last post by madhatter
Wow!

That's pretty damn warm.

How much detail do you need in your response? Are you going to try and do this yourself?

Depends on the work, if I can do it myself I will, if not I will obv pay someone,
My "mechanic" said it was the stator that did this but I doubt that...
I really just want to ride my bike man and It's been upsetting I'm already $3000 into the bike and haven't even rode it more then 30 times man..
Have had this bike for over 6 months too...
Was suppose to be my daily driver for work and back to home but as you guys can tell.. hasn't happened cause all these dang issues.

 94 
 on: June 20, 2018, 05:04:20 AM 
Started by madhatter - Last post by umop-ǝpisdn
Wow!

That's pretty damn warm.

How much detail do you need in your response? Are you going to try and do this yourself?

 95 
 on: June 20, 2018, 04:53:39 AM 
Started by madhatter - Last post by madhatter
Disregard everything I said, i'm a high on and I smoke a lot of weed lol

My rectifier is burnt out again, second time, what is causing this fuse and my wires to burn?
please help.. just want to f'kin ride this bike in peace but every day somethings always happening to it...

 96 
 on: June 20, 2018, 03:18:24 AM 
Started by spit051261 - Last post by spit051261
Mine is a GT. I sounding mind figuring out a good way to set up some side running lights for night riding, since my bike is all black.

Tell me about this gear position mod! I will say, I have yet to go higher than 3rd. My bike will cruise 140km/h without remotely breathing hard. I usually know what gear I'm in, but a quick thing to glance at could be helpful

Check out LX_SS post about it and also see my one .
http://korider.com/index.php?topic=29509.0
It's not hard with basic electrical/electronic knowledge .
Dude , you should be going in a higher gear than 3rd  :o
There are 6 gears for a reason .

 97 
 on: June 20, 2018, 03:15:43 AM 
Started by spit051261 - Last post by LX_SS
This is the gear display position mod : I do offer this service for those who don't have the ability or the time to do this.


 98 
 on: June 20, 2018, 03:14:00 AM 
Started by LX_SS - Last post by LX_SS
There are a lot of factors in chrome parts(proper metal, not plastic fake).
Purity of the nickel/copper, proper cleaning, etc...
Not to mention that there has probably been some % of the chemical makeup that has been substituted for another to cut costs and be more environmentally friendly.
There are so many stages in chroming parts that with the way today society is, making a big buck rather than quality items there are many many corners cut today.

Lots of things in general have improved, but things like build quality to a point, haven't and we now live in a disposable world rather than making a quality item that will last our lifetime.

 99 
 on: June 20, 2018, 03:02:03 AM 
Started by spit051261 - Last post by umop-ǝpisdn
Welding on the chassis is considered a big no-no. Something to do with heat treatment making things brittle. Apparently it changes the metallurgical properties of the alloy, or some such. I'm not familiar with heat treatment of metals.

I do like the pucks on those sliders. The ones on my bike have faded over time and gone grey.

 100 
 on: June 20, 2018, 02:56:42 AM 
Started by LX_SS - Last post by umop-ǝpisdn
So does anyone actually know the legit reason why modern chroming is so much worse than the stuff done in the 60's?

I'm actually curious why this is the case.

Modern paint and panels are so much better than older stuff. Galvanised panels and improvements in paint and pigment chemistry means that modern cars stay rust free for a lot longer than cars of old.

The average standard of modern electricals is significantly better and more reliable than the average standard of electricals in cars from the 60s and 70s.

Engines. Better.

EFI is a lot more reliable than carburettors. If you don't think so, tough shit. You're wrong.

Modern brakes, chassis dynamics and suspension. Better.

You get outlayers in all these categories, i.e. the Mk II Golf GTi is super light and has a great chassis, but only a moron drunk on nostalgia would say that it's a holistically better car than the current model.

All of this improvement in technology, chemistry and engineering! ...but chrome though? I just don't get it. There has to be a legit reason. Something changed somewhere along the way.

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