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[umop-ǝpisdn]

Some random thoughts. Not trying to insult your intelligence, I am just going to make zero assumptions. If you already did all this, then ust ignore me:

1. You pretty much HAVE to do both front and back cams to make sure it's correct, or else there is a 50/50 chance that the front and rear will be out of phase.

2. Remove the inspection plug on the magneto cover and the timing chain tensioners from both front and rear cylinders. Remove the metal cam chain cover things as well. Depending on the angle of the moon, sometimes you can get away with not undoing the camshaft housings, but it sure does make life easier if you do. IF you do, you're going to want a torque wrench, as bearings hate life if over torqued.

3. Align the F mark on the magneto with the arrow on the engine casing that you can see by looking through the mageto cover peephole.

4. The first mark that you need to align is on the exhaust cam of the front cylinder. The order really matters. The mark is stamped with a dash. This should be parallel with the top of the head and the '2' mark should be pointing straight out at 90 degrees from the head. Pull your chain tight up the outside of the head and over the exhaust cam.

5. You now need to point the '3' mark stamped in the INLET cam, straight up. You then place the chain over the sprockets so that there are 16 pins in between the '2' and the '3'. ..what does this mean? So both the 2 and the 3 point to a tooth. The teeth fit into the space BETWEEN the pins. So where the 2 points to, that is zero. From there, count 16 pins. On the space after the 16th pin, your three should point there.

6. Re-fit the front tensioner, so it doesn't jump a tooth as you turn the engine later.

7. Turn your engine anti-clockwise 285 degrees (almost one full turn) until you see the "R" mark come into view in the peep hole.

8. For the rear cylinder head you install the INTAKE cam first (different to the front head).

9. Same process, line the dash up with the top of the head and pointing toward the inlet manifold. Pull the chain tight and over the cam sprocket.

10. Same as before, the three points straight up and there needs to be 16 pins between the '2' and the '3'.

11. Tensioner in. Button it up and job done.

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[MrPorkHunt]

No intelligence to insult my friend but I’m sure I have followed that to the tee , let me have a few tries and I’ll get back to ya with results ,thanks for the time much appreciated, cheers

[MrPorkHunt]

I do have a quick question that might be the overall issue but other than the noticeable differences are gt and gv 250 carbs set the same (floats,jets ect) cheers

[umop-ǝpisdn]

Same same. ..but dif. ..actually no, just same same. 

[MrPorkHunt]

Correct sir , replaced the front cylinder head , refitted all the inner parts , camshaft & timing chain pretty much , followed the service manual procedures but there are quotes in it that I don’t get and I don’t think I’m doing it correctly or there’s a procedure I’m missing, but after trying to refit it the second time , I turn the key it was kicking over but sounds like a lazy kick( fresh battery) and it doesn’t sound like the same kind of ‘kick-over’ as before ...my uneducated guess would be timings out? (due to camshaft removal/ refitting)only a guess.
*UPDATE*
 just summarising..
it kicks over but not like before , before it would kick over with what seems like more power and would actually start/run, after thinking ive re-corrected the situation and turning the key it kicks over but it seems like the power it had once is no longer there and obviously doesnt start/run , like it did.

if anyone has any advice on this it would be greatly appreciated , ive wasted too much time and money trying to be a know it all cowboy and its gotten me 2 bikes that ran and now dont (hence the cowboy bit)

thanks again in advance
MrPorkHunt<--this name couldnt be any more correct !

[MrPorkHunt]

Here’s a long shot...anyone heard of or happen to have a step by step video on how to rebuild a gv250?, mainly the cylinder/timing area? cheers
MrPorkHunt

[umop-ǝpisdn]

I doubt it

Dumb thought, has the magneto rotor slipped on it's shaft?

..there's supposed to be a woodruff key holding it in, but I wonder if it's eaten it?

[LX_SS]

I doubt it

Dumb thought, has the magneto rotor slipped on it's shaft?

..there's supposed to be a woodruff key holding it in, but I wonder if it's eaten it?

i've seen that happen before, granted it wasnt a hyosung motor but the flywheel mashed the woodruff key and then the firing timing was all the way out, at the start it was running ok, then sounded flat, then wouldn't fire at all. the guy that had it adjusted the timing again thinking the flywheel was ok and smashed valves. fun times