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Author Topic: valve clearance question  (Read 29024 times)

yoyo

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valve clearance question
« on: October 22, 2009, 09:28:38 PM »

How often should i check the valve clearance?
I heard it's cost some money if let dealer to do the job.
I guess they adjust the valve too.
if it is not that hard anyone have any info how to do it.
I read a manual and I get confused myself.
if there is video or step by step with pic that will be great.
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BradCCM

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Re: valve clearance question
« Reply #1 on: October 22, 2009, 09:59:58 PM »

You should be doing the valve adjustment at 600mi (1000km), then again at 2500mi (4000km), after that it should be done every 5000mi (8000km)

At my shop it is done at 600mi, then at 3000mi, then every 6000mi after that.

If you have never done a valve adjustment on a bike I would not recommend doing it yourself.  If done wrong you can damage the valves, pistons and cams, basically destroy the top end of the bike...
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BradCCM

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Re: valve clearance question
« Reply #2 on: October 22, 2009, 11:16:02 PM »

If you have never done a valve adjustment on a bike I would not recommend doing it yourself.  If done wrong you can damage the valves, pistons and cams, basically destroy the top end of the bike...
Everyone has to start somewhere though, don't you agree?
Not everyone can afford to take their stuff to the pros.
Forums like this should be a place where pros and newbies exchange information. That gives the newb a chance to decide for himself whether or not he would feel confident tackling the task.
I guess I'm just saying....tell him what all is involved.
Not just say its not a good idea to do it yourself.

 

No problem...

To do the valve adjustment, You do one head at a time,

 Remove the spark plugs and Set the piston at top dead center of the compression stroke (on the left side of the engine there is a screw cap on the charging sys cover, remove the cap and turn the engine with a socket)

Use feeler gauges at that point and check the clearance in-between the cam and the top of the valve bucket.  Use a piece of paper  and label it with intake side and exhaust side and write down what the clearances are.

If they are too tight or too loose you have to remove the cams.  I like to mark the cams and the chain exactly where  they are sitting, so when the cams go back in you can line the chain up with where the cams were. Or make sure that the cam marks are lining up with the head...

(make sure the cam chain does not fall down into the engine, nor slips from the gear off the crank (if it slips the marks you made on the chain and the cam are useless). Use a piece of safety wire and a weight (I use a crescent wrench) and hang the wrench so the chain stays tight and up out if the chain galley)

Remove the cams, and the buckets, be careful when you remove the buckets that the shims under the buckets don't fall into the cam chain galley into the bottom of the engine, or is you have the spark plug out (which you should) that the shim doesn't fall into the cylinder.  Also make sure you keep the shims organized so you put the new shims into the right valve for proper clearance. If you took a shim out of the right side exhaust valve, you do the math for that shim and install the new shim back into the right side exhaust valve. Coat the shim with a bit of oil, and reinstall in on top of of the valve, then put the bucket back on top of the shim, make sure the bucket sits down properly. Do the same with any other clearance that was out of spec.

Reistall the cams once you are done with the 4 valves in that head. Make sure you line up your marks on the chain with the marks on the cams. Then torque the cams back down.  At this point SLOWLY turn the engine over with the socket, and make sure that it turns over freely, if you are turning the engine and it comes to a solid stop, you may be hitting a valve.  That is not good, you can bend the valve if you force it over. Recheck all of the clearances at that point and start over.  If it turns over fine, check that the cams are lining up with the head in the correct spot, reinstall the valve cover, Use a gasket sealant one the rubber valve cover gasket (like threebond 1211) on the cam cut out dips in the head. Make sure that it is sitting properly on the head and torque the valve cover back down.

Then do the other head.

I would definitely get a proper Manuel for the bike for illustration. Every bike is a different.  Starting out on shim under bucket is tough,  It is the only one that you have to remove the cams, If you could do a shim over bucket, or tappet system to start with would be great. Also using feeler gauges you need to know what kind of resistance is good when you slid it under the cam.  If you know someone that can help that would be great.

Just know, that if you make a mistake it could cost you $1000+ to get repaired.

Hope this all makes sense...

Oh other notes. You need to remove the cam chain tensioners to remove the cams, then reinstall the tensioner with the special holder tool...


« Last Edit: October 22, 2009, 11:25:12 PM by BradCCM »
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BradCCM

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Re: valve clearance question
« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2009, 11:56:54 PM »


I liked Hyo's instructions on turning the crank 10 times before measuring.


It can also give you an idea of what the engine feels like prior adjusting the valves. So when you turn it over after you adjust the valves you know what feels right and what feels wrong.  :)
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meowmix

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Re: valve clearance question
« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2009, 12:33:35 AM »

Nice writeup Brad! I have read that these engines go a long time without needing adjustment, is this looking true?
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BradCCM

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Re: valve clearance question
« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2009, 12:44:08 AM »

Nice writeup Brad! I have read that these engines go a long time without needing adjustment, is this looking true?

They can go a while without an actual adjustment.  Shim under bucket is much more reliable than shim over, or tappet.  Most bikes the first adjustment is at 15000mi plus with shim under. But checking the clearances is fast, doing an actual adjustment is where all the time goes.

I have checked a lot of valve clearances on all the hyos, without having to do an actual adjustment.  But I still think its a good idea to check an keep an eye on them. Also it keeps your warranty good, if you dont do it, and dont have it documented, they can refuse a warranty.
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Strycker

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Re: valve clearance question
« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2009, 01:20:52 AM »

Can we sticky this to the thread?  Good info.
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BradCCM

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Re: valve clearance question
« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2009, 01:46:10 AM »

Something I will add...

The piece of paper I said to right down the clearances...

Label it with an arrow pointing forward (front of the bike). The front cyl on the bike, the front position would be the exhaust, rear of bike is intake. When you do the rear cyl, front of the bike would be intake, rear would be exhaust.  Designating what valve you are working with.  Split the paper in to 4 (right and left, front and rear). write down what the the clearances are, and as you are taking the valve buckets off, write what size shim is in each valve, in the proper spot in your 4 squares, so if things got mixed up, you can reflect back to your notes.  that will show you right side and left side, intake and exhaust...  It helps keep things clear...

sorry its upside down... but like this.

« Last Edit: October 23, 2009, 01:57:12 AM by BradCCM »
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stigger

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Re: valve clearance question
« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2009, 02:16:46 AM »

I've checked mine on the 650 more times than I'd like remember and they haven't needed adjusting yet...
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Opty

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Re: valve clearance question
« Reply #9 on: October 23, 2009, 09:31:40 AM »

Can we sticky this to the thread?  Good info.

+1


Thanks Brad!
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