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Author Topic: New and Old Tentioner  (Read 11972 times)

OLEG

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2009, 12:40:46 AM »

Hi all!

I am from Ukraine and my english not so good, sorry!


This camchain tensioner was manufactured for replacement camchain tensioner 12830HR6500 because it have engineers miscalculation (thin spring)!

In USA You can buy this part here: www.hyosungmotorsusa.com
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ruber0id

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2010, 12:32:11 AM »

I've found it here:
http://www.hyosungmotors.hu/download/pdf/data/alkatresz-katalogusok/GV250EFI-parts-catalog.pdf

See "Fig 9. Cam Chain" page of the pdf.
Apparently, that tensioner (part # 12830H88600) is used in 250cc FI engine on 2008+ GV250EFI

GV250 - FI (2008) - 7EU01/7G01/7S01   8EN01   
GV250N - EI (2009) - 9EU01/9F01/9G01   8EN01   9EG02

do those numbers in yellow - as they're listed in catalogue - represent different modifications of the GV250 engine for the different markets, you think?


Looks like there are three types of tensioners so far for GV250 engine:
11220HM8110PCY CYLINDER COMP accepts 12830H31320 tensioner (1st gen)
11220HR8600PCY CYLINDER COMP accepts 12830HR6500 tensioner (2nd gen)
11220HJ8650PCY CYLINDER COMP accepts 12830H88600 tensioner (3rd gen)

1st gen is not interchangeable. 3rd bolts right in instead 2nd, even though CYLINDER COMP's (whatever that is) have different part numbers.

disclaimer  8) *all the info above is from googling and not from hands-on experience, so feel free to correct me



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silentjatt

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #12 on: July 04, 2010, 05:21:31 PM »

well just found out yesterday, i need a new cam chain tensioner. it was the one with the yellow tag.
2008 GT250R FI
aprox . 22,000kms
Ontario, Canada

My friend adviced me to get a manual tensioner instead of the automatic which i had. anyone know if they r availaible?
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08 GT250R FI---- dead! :(
life moves on to 'better' bikes..

meowmix

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #13 on: August 07, 2010, 12:26:57 AM »

Not hard to make a manual one, spesh if you've got an old auto one to hack up. I'd recommend getting a good automatic one though, manual ones are good for racing where you can make it more/less tense to adjust to the race, but you'd need to remember to re-adjust them for road use every now and then, and theres no specific way to find the best tension. You just go till it feels right, which could really mean the chains about to snap or skip off the sprocket.

Either way, isn't the tensioner covered under recall or warranty or something?
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'04 Hyo GT250: Pod filters, rejet, 7.5wt fork oil, DIY fender elim.

'91 Toyota MR2: Pod filter, tacky plastic steering wheel.

daved358

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2012, 10:23:57 PM »

Have GT250R 2009 model and the tensioner has just failed after 18 months riding and 5500 miles. Having issues trying to get repairs done through warranty so not overly happy with Hyosung at present.
See post ' WARRANTY ISSUES' >:(
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solarsea

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #15 on: April 28, 2015, 07:02:33 PM »

Here's a video of my old-style tensioner. I bought the bike new (made it 2013 the docs says) and had just 4500km on it. The tensioner is stamped with 2001.

https://youtu.be/IZEWsgkvTPQ
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Hylife

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #16 on: April 29, 2015, 06:13:24 AM »

Vid doesn't show a broken cam chain tensioner.

The back of the tensioner must be screwed in to retract the other end that you are wiggling.
It is specifically designed to NOT allow inwards movement (retracting) and to slowly unscrew (move outwards) as the chains stretch.

One must fully screw in the the centre bolt to retract the tensioning rod.
Whilst holding the centre bolt in place to prevent the rod extending (spring tension), you must re-affix the tensioner to the engine sleeve.
Once the tensioner is re-affixed you slowly release the centre bolt that is under spring tension to allow the rod to extend which pushes the cam chain guide rubbing strip onto the chain.
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2011 GV250 - 2011 GV650C - It's not 'what' you ride, it's 'that' you ride.

solarsea

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #17 on: April 29, 2015, 06:27:53 AM »

The spring was not broken, but rusty and stuck. The back part that housed it was sealed with some white glue that fell to pieces inside.

I removed the tensioner while keeping the center bolt in place in order to measure how much was it extending while in. There are wear marks on the rod on the very spot. I doubt those were made just by the tensioner extending once :)
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Hylife

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #18 on: April 29, 2015, 02:48:02 PM »

I could only comment based on the video which, not pickin' on ya, was poor quality.
In the vid it looked just like a tensioner should. Couldn't pick up on any wear because of the blur, and obviously I was unaware that the spring was rusted up or that stuff got stuck inside.
I just posted to let you know about the wind-up system in case you didn't know, as many folks don't know how they work and after removing them they try to refit them fully extended and wonder why their engine dies prematurely.

The RT125D is just a carbed single pot version of the 250 V-twin so many GT/GV 250 engine parts should be fully interchangable.

Depending on the hole size that the tensioner fits into, in Oz, a 28mm one is only AUD$39.


And AUD$3 for the gasket.


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2011 GV250 - 2011 GV650C - It's not 'what' you ride, it's 'that' you ride.

solarsea

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #19 on: April 29, 2015, 03:36:08 PM »

My bad, the video is indeed blurry :) I seems I have the old cylinder as the diameter of the inner part is 20mm. Still, I wont trust that design until I manage to pry it open and check why isn't the lock bolt completely fixing the pushing rod, e.g. why is there free play in the internals.

In the mean time I got the dimensions to a metal worker with a lathe - just the plate and the protruding cylinder with the mounting holes and an M8 thread in the middle.
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