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Author Topic: New and Old Tentioner  (Read 11446 times)

solarsea

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #20 on: May 02, 2015, 02:00:56 PM »

This is the inner working of the old-style tensioner, two washers removed for clarity :) I got the spring pins out with a dremel and burr.
Code: [Select]
               /---+                  -------------\
  /----+      | (o)|         /-\                   |
 |     |------|    |--///////| |//|                |   /-------
 | (o) |      |    |  |//////|N|//|                )-O-
 |     |------|    |--|//////| |///                | ^ \-------
  \----+  ^   | (o)|    ^    \-/                   | |     ^
    ^     |    \---|    |     ^       -------------/ |     |
    |     |      ^      |     |        ^             |     |
    |     |      |      |     |        |             |     |
    |     |      |      |     |        |      rubber seal  |
    |     |      |      |     |        |                   | slotted axle for the spring
    |     |      |      |     |        |
    |     |      |      |     |        | spring-driven nut socket
    |     |      |      |     |
    |     |      |      |     | circular nut with two flat sides
    |     |      |      |
    |     |      |      | threaded section of the push rod, doesn't look like a metric size.
    |     |      |
    |     |      | cirular mouting cap, held with 4 spring pins through the tensioner's body
    |     |     
    |     | circular push rod with two flat sides to prevent rotation against the cap     
    |
    | cirular push rod cap, held with a spring pin through the rod

Here's a diagram for the tensioner itself
Code: [Select]
               | |
               |=|
               | |-----------\
               | |      | /  |
           -------------| /  |
    /-+   ||     ------\| /  |
   |  |===||==///||/    |=/==]
    \-+   ||     ------/| /  |
     ^     -------------| /  |
     |      ^  | |      | /  |
     |      |  | |--------/--/
     |      |  |=|  ^     ^  ^
     |      |  | |  |     |  |
     |      |   ^   |     |  |
     |      |   |   |     |  | spring compartment cap, 2 bolts and a rubber cap in the center
     |      |   |   |     |
     |      |   |   |     | spring compartment
     |      |   |   |
     |      |   |   | proturded section
     |      |   |
     |      |   | 6.5mm mounting holes, non-threaded, 8mm tall, 56mm length
     |      |
     |      | goes 13mm into the cylinder with a diameter of 20mm
     |
     | pushes against the chain stay

I consider this a bad design as it allows for free play of the push rod whenever the nut socket is not under tension. As seen, this can happen with a broken or a stuck spring.

I should be getting the body for a manual one tomorrow :)
« Last Edit: May 02, 2015, 02:02:27 PM by solarsea »
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solarsea

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #21 on: May 06, 2015, 09:46:22 PM »

I got a lathe-made manual one, screwed an acorn nut with a jam nut on the inner side and a washer with a locking nut on the other. Cut a gasket from a notebook cover, applied some grease on the shiny side to have it stick to the plug. Working well so far :)

As for the old automatic one - I think that opening the the external spring compartment, cleaning it up and applying some moly grease or similar should be beneficial. There's a seal towards the inner mechanism so none of it would enter the engine.
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solarsea

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #22 on: May 24, 2015, 03:01:58 PM »

Updates on manual one - working great, had to make a few sealing mods
 - replaced the diy gasket with a thin film of "Reinzosil" black silicone as the paper one leaked.
 - wrapped couple of turns of a 100% PTFE tape around the bolt before screwing it in. PTFE is oil-resistant and helped stop a leak that was happening through the M8 thread itself. (my lathesmith did not add a groove for an o-ring and I did not have the virtue of waiting)



Thinking of a way to further protect it against corrosion from water/salt, any ideas ?
« Last Edit: May 25, 2015, 09:25:13 PM by solarsea »
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umop-ǝpisdn

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #23 on: May 26, 2015, 09:26:43 PM »

Make everything from 318 stainless?
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humanballistics

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #24 on: May 29, 2015, 11:18:21 AM »

318? 316 is marine grade :P if you get 316L it's better for welding
316 is also known as A4
sent using tapatalk on my magic oblong.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2015, 11:23:50 AM by humanballistics »
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06 GT250

umop-ǝpisdn

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #25 on: May 29, 2015, 12:47:52 PM »

318. 316. Who's counting anyway. I tend to lose count after 6 or 7.  8)
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humanballistics

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #26 on: May 29, 2015, 01:34:04 PM »

true :P

I only know because I had to figure it out for the brake pistons I made :P and apparently I have a weird brain that then just remembers weird shit like that...but can't remember where I put that freaking spanner...

there are probably better grades of stainless for the job but the harder the steel the harder it is to work/machine
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06 GT250

solarsea

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #27 on: May 29, 2015, 02:07:54 PM »

Now I have to learn about materials, eh. I don't question my choice, programming pays, but hardware is definitely fun as well :)
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humanballistics

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #28 on: May 30, 2015, 01:21:19 AM »

316 stainless will do the job...look up stainless on the web..there are some comprehensive breakdowns in type...general rule is that the harder it is the less corrosion resistant...i don't think the parts inside the engine will see enough moisture or oxygen to need to be stainless...just the outer plate and bolt. And 316 will do that job comfortably

sent using tapatalk on my magic oblong.

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06 GT250

Rangerscott

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Re: New and Old Tentioner
« Reply #29 on: May 30, 2015, 04:15:34 AM »

So....for us thatll stay will the oem type, should we stay with the old style?
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