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Author Topic: Wheel Bearings  (Read 312 times)
stigger
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« on: July 01, 2010, 04:37:07 PM »

Does anyone know what size the rear wheel bearings are on a 650, there would appear to be 2 of one sort and on of the other...

Ideas...
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HyoFuelNazi
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« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2010, 05:46:22 PM »

This guy got some a little while ago, seals and all:

http://korider.com/index.php?topic=14715.0

and he is intelligent and good looking too:  Grin Grin


Down behind the showground at Gosford Stigger, I forget their name now Central Coast?/ Dick Watson?/ Gosford?  Bearings

had them all in stock.
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stigger
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« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2010, 06:17:17 PM »

Cool got a bearing place over the road I'll check it out...

I got a quote from Newcastle suzuki $25 for all three apparently the part numbers are Suzuki.

The geeza I spoke to said that most Hyosung part numbers are some numbers the HN or HM and the some more numbers.

ie 64751HM8100 but others are some numbers then a gap then some more numbers ie 08133 62037 those ones are Suzuki, I checked a few and it seems to work, it's mostly bolts and bearings but hey what ever works...
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HyoFuelNazi
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« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2010, 06:59:59 PM »

Cool got a bearing place over the road I'll check it out...

I got a quote from Newcastle suzuki $25 for all three apparently the part numbers are Suzuki.

The geeza I spoke to said that most Hyosung part numbers are some numbers the HN or HM and the some more numbers.

ie 64751HM8100 but others are some numbers then a gap then some more numbers ie 08133 62037 those ones are Suzuki, I checked a few and it seems to work, it's mostly bolts and bearings but hey what ever works...

$25 is very good for a moto shop  Shocked They must be making only 100% profit on that  Shocked

Is that with the outer seals?

Good to see the Suzuki number uses the Std. bearing no. ie. 08133 62037

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stigger
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« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2010, 07:07:40 PM »

Never noticed that...
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« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2010, 07:10:58 PM »

How hard were they to get out?

I've not done MC bearings before only cars do you just beat the living daylights out of them with a hammer and drift???
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HyoFuelNazi
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« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2010, 07:24:23 PM »

Gotta admit the standard numbers are dead easier: " I'll have 10 6204's ...... sounds so easy after seeing those motopart numbers.



Hardness to get out? From memory pretty easy, easier than my KTM thats for sure ( the original in the KTM had frozen in there real good )

You just need to get a long rod, thinner than the axle rod, then work on each side of the bearing. WD40 is handy, as is a clean of any "crud" that could jam under the bearing outer Dia. as it tries to slide out ( sharp knife or say a sharp jewellers screwdriver would work for this )

But mainly tap at opposites/diagonals ( like you do up a car wheel ).

Once one side is out the spacer tube can be removed and access to the other side is easier, SO allways test the one thats moving out easiest and remove that first.

Its best not to put pressure on the inner race but sometimes on removal it has to be done. Never bash/apply large force to, the inner race of a new bearing. If you have cleaned it well it should be a fairly easy press fit anyway. Sockets make great refitting jigs if you have one just under the bearing OD. that way all the fitting force goes on the outer race where the friction fit is.


Just clean it all well and its easy. Seemed well machined to me in that respect.

A proper impact bearing remover would sure make it easier but meh, the drift works fine  Wink Just make sure it isn't too rounded off at the end for catching the bearing edges.

But remember tap it out in a opposites or diagonal pattern
« Last Edit: July 01, 2010, 07:31:18 PM by HyoFuelNazi » Logged

stigger
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« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2010, 07:26:32 PM »

Cool exactly same as car then...
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HyoFuelNazi
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« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2010, 07:36:03 PM »

Cool exactly same as car then...

Pretty much same techniques but cars are waaaaay harder. Most cars have cast iron bearing housings don't they? SO the chance of a bearing seizing up in there is higher, but on a positive note, with cars, if you tend to get "rough" it doesn't do too much to the housing. MC's have softer Al. alloy wheels so be gentler, for that same reason they tend to come out easier too.  Grin
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« Reply #9 on: July 01, 2010, 07:43:58 PM »

Just dawned on me, do you want the standard outer seal numbers too? I could go and find my spare set and read off the seal numbers too?

I have them well stashed away, for when I need them, in a blue bag ...... somewhere Huh very likely a very safe place  Grin Grin Grin But can llok for the seal numbers if it makes it easier otherwise the bearing shop can tell you what you need if you give them a close measurement for width and shaft.
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