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Author Topic: Red FI Light  (Read 3168 times)

hydrax

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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2015, 02:16:00 AM »

I asked Hyosung about the code and recieved the following response:

Quote
Code 0563 indicates a battery voltage issue however that coding system is not generally used with later versions of the software in your bike’s ECU.  Your dealer has factory diagnostic equipment that is better suited to properly determine the issue and I recommend that you contact them to have it checked.

I'd rather not fork out the cash for the dealer to look at it.... Why can't my bike just show a normal code using the switch haha.
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2012 GV650 Aquila Sport EFI

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Hylife

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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #11 on: October 23, 2015, 10:34:21 AM »

Quote
...Why can't my bike just show a normal code using the switch haha....


Subtle changes in models and ECUs.

If it is a battery voltage issue first step is to duplicate the wiring from the RR output directly to the battery terminals.
Only if this doesn't solve the issue would you then also replace the RR with a quality MOSFET one from http://www.roadstercycle.com    Your RR will eventually fail (diode ones all do eventually).
Only use wire with quality copper (other materials won't do for charging), with a conductor diameter of at least 2mm. Ignore wires that say 3 or 4mm etc as this includes the insulation. It is the size of the copper conductor that is important and this is not the same as wires stating the total thickness.

Remember we are dealing with low voltages, and that means high currents, so use good wires.
15 amps on 12 volts will heat a wire up like a 3,500 watt appliance on 230 volts

If you want to make it nice and tidy, purchase these.

Series 250 2pin plug and socket.
This will be so you can keep the old and new wires together in one neat and tidy connection.


30amp self resetting circuit breaker (fuse).
This goes in the positive wire close to your battery.

And make yourself up a duplicate earth strap (4mm copper conductor) from the battery negative to the bike frame.
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hydrax

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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2015, 11:29:35 AM »

Sounds like I'm taking a trip to Jaycar this weekend. :)

So I replace the wiring first to see if that helps and if not then look at replacing the RR. Its been in the back of my mind to do this so thank you for the instructions.
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2012 GV650 Aquila Sport EFI

hydrax

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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #13 on: October 25, 2015, 07:52:05 AM »

I went to a Jaycar on the weekend and they didn't have all the parts in stock so I wasn't able to try upgrade the harness this weekend.

I did however test resistance in the RR and it seems way out of spec:
Pin 4-1: 5.76 Mohm
Pin 4-2: 5.23 Mohm
Pin 4-3: 4.87 Mohm
Pin 5-1: 9.94 Mohm
Pin 5-2: 5.64 Mohm
Pin 5-3: 5.52 Mohm
Pin 5-4: 9.24 Mohm

Most of these should be around 1-2 Mohm according to the service manual, so sounds like I should order a new RR.
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2012 GV650 Aquila Sport EFI

Hylife

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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #14 on: October 25, 2015, 09:50:55 AM »

Forget about resistance measurements with the RR. Again, there can be subtle changes with suppliers to Hyo and the manual specs may not be accurate.

What is important is the voltage readings at the RR and battery terminals whilst you are riding and the RR is charging.
The only way to truly test this is with a volt meter whilst you are riding.
For a stationary test you need to have your battery at full charge to start with, so hook up that battery charger at one tenth capacity for 12-14 hours.
On disconnection from the charger the battery should read 13.2V DC or higher. It will drop back down on standing.
Start the engine and when warm get the revs up to approx. half way (5000rpm) and read the battery terminal voltage.
The Hyo diode RR should be throwing out around 15 volts. Due to the severely under spec wiring used by Hyo, there is a considerable voltage drop when you draw down from the battery. If the voltage is down just a little bit you will get the dreaded red FI light. The bike will run as normal but the ECU has detected an out-of-spec reading and "bling" up comes the FI warning.
Replacing the RR with a MOSFET one may not eliminate that FI light. A MOSFET RR is going to be supremely efficient and chuck out a steady 14.2 volts but your wiring loom may still let you down.

I have had the same issue with my GV650C.
Dead diode based RRs on a couple of occasions. Finally bit the bullet and shelled out for an expensive MOSFET unit. Bike ran much better with a steady 13.9 volts at all rpm, but the FI light randomly came on with no other appearent symptoms.
I had been utilising the existing wiring loom and when I duplicated the wires direct to the battery, 'Voila', 14.2Volts at all rpm and no more drama.

I ordered the RR from http://www.roadstercycle.com with the Triumph harness and utilised two of the four (duplicated) RR output wires on a series 250 2 pin socket plugged into the existing wiring loom, and the other 2 (initially heat shrunk) to another series 250 2 pin plug and socket direct to the battery terminals with a 30amp self resetting circuit breaker (snapped off the mounting plate and used a piece of large heat shrink tubing).

https://picasaweb.google.com/109697641141633861827/Shindengen_RR_Upgrade?authkey=Gv1sRgCM37mqGco7mjPw#slideshow/6069909535354830210


$2.95


$7.95


$2.60 a meter (Check out their cut your own length spools)


$2.75 pkg
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2011 GV250 - 2011 GV650C - It's not 'what' you ride, it's 'that' you ride.

umop-ǝpisdn

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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #15 on: October 25, 2015, 10:48:58 AM »

I had been utilising the existing wiring loom and when I duplicated the wires direct to the battery, 'Voila', 14.2Volts at all rpm and no more drama.

I ordered the RR from http://www.roadstercycle.com with the Triumph harness and utilised two of the four (duplicated) RR output wires on a series 250 2 pin socket plugged into the existing wiring loom, and the other 2 (initially heat shrunk) to another series 250 2 pin plug and socket direct to the battery terminals with a 30amp self resetting circuit breaker (snapped off the mounting plate and used a piece of large heat shrink tubing).


Brilliant. Elegant. Ideal. Better by far than my patched together hack.
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hydrax

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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #16 on: October 25, 2015, 10:58:26 AM »

oh I see.

Well I did a similar voltage test off the battery early last month actually, I noted the results and this is what it looked like -

Bike off: 12.62v (Bike had been off two days)
Bike idle: 13.4v
Bike Rev: 15v
Bike off after ride: 13.73

When I did the test the red light was only coming on briefly once or twice a ride. The past week its basically on all the time.

So I guess that seems ok but I'll do another test as soon as I can. In the meanwhile I might just stick with getting the bits for a wiring upgrade. I searched around and saw people had improvements just doing that anyways.
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2012 GV650 Aquila Sport EFI

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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #17 on: October 25, 2015, 11:03:28 AM »

Did you get the error code ID?
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hydrax

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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #18 on: October 25, 2015, 01:21:05 PM »

Its giving code 0563, which hasn't been very helpful lol.
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Re: Red FI Light
« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2015, 08:51:13 AM »

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