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Author Topic: Engine cut out  (Read 205 times)


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Engine cut out
« on: October 08, 2017, 02:12:01 PM »

Well I tried to find a thread with this topic but I couldnt or may have missed it...
Anyway recently I have been experience an engine cut out while riding especially when slowing down like nearing a set of lights. Thankfully because I still had momentum it started again but I am concerned it may get worse. I have read other forums of other bikes that it could be the cut-off switch on the side stand...While I can't argue as I don't know, it seems a little far fetched as I'm not touching the stand at all, unless it just happened to drop a mm to activate the switch... Anyone else have the any similar problems OR can shed some light into this problem? Kind regards

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Re: Engine cut out
« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2017, 11:04:06 AM »

The side stand switch (SSS) acts just like the Big Red Kill Switch on the handlebars.
The entire Hyo SSS is poorly designed.
The internal electrical contacts on the switch require the plunger to be depressed much further than the small arm on the side stand actually depresses it.
The switch contacts only just make/break the circuit and cause arcing (carbon buildup) and, the switch is not very adept at keeping out road grime if you like to ride in the wet.

Sure you can bypass the SSS and risk the safety implications of riding off with a side stand down.
Sure you could buy a replacement SSS but it will result in the same problems in a short time frame.
The solution is to clean the switch internals* and to "very carefully" bend the small arm on the side stand that depresses the plunger, in a vice, so that it depresses the switch plunger in further.

* Switch cleaning.
After unplugging the SSS cable from the wiring, remove the switch from the frame.
The rear of the switch has a layer of black gunk sealant that needs to be carefully scraped off.
You will now notice four small Philips head screws holding a rectangular phenolic board which ensures the switch internals stay in place.
Go get your camera before you remove the four screws and phenolic board as you will want to take a photo of the internals as soon as that board is removed for proper re-assembly.
Now clean the switch internals with 'electrical contact clean& lube' (NOT WD40).
Re-assemble, and seal the back with ordinary bathroom silicone sealant.
Once the sealant has cured or formed a good skin, refit to the bike frame.
2011 GV250 - 2011 GV650C - It's not 'what' you ride, it's 'that' you ride.

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