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Darwin

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Hi
« on: January 07, 2019, 11:54:34 PM »

Hi guys this is my first post after spending a bit of time on line looking for info
I am from Aussie and have recently bought a hyosung gt250r 2006
The bike was $1000 and only had 500 kís on it , so a bit of a bargain I thought.
As it has been sitting a while I cleaned the tank and the carbs , did the oil and filter and she fired up and rode nicely.
That is until I jetted the carb and hydro locked the bloody thing.
So I assumed the needles where buggered and after an inspection yeah the front one had grooves on it. So I ordered two new ones from why go stock in the us along with a vacuum petcock.
Now the bike only runs if the vacuum line to the petcock is disconnected as I think it is still way to rich. The needle seat Irvingís arenít perfect but still seem firmly in place. I raised the needle one groove put the 95 jet at the front and a 97.5 at the back.
Any help would be appreciated if any one has seen this before
Cheers
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Darwin

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Re: Hi
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2019, 03:50:14 AM »

Hey guys

So I went and replaced the needle and seat orings and seam to have the same issue.

Could this be an electrical issue ? I have pulled the carbs a thousand times cleaned them replaced orings and needles and everything looks good, I have spark and fuel but still around like crap.

Cheers
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umop-ǝpisdn

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Re: Hi
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2019, 04:24:07 AM »

G'day Darwin,

hyosungparts.asia <-- Australian based.

Vacuum line to petcock disconnected?? You should have NO fuel flow in that case. This would explain why it hydrolocked. I suspect that the diaphragm in the petcock has split.

If it idles, look for vacuum leaks. You can use a can of starter spray, just squirt some around the rubber joins and listen for a change in idle speed. In particular look carefully at the inlet manifolds, which are rubber and prone to hardening and splitting. Also look at the rubber lines that provide vacuum to the fuel pump and petcock. Make sure they haven't cracked.

With regard to electrics, yes. With these bikes, electrics are a weakness. Check both coils for spark. They're decent output coils, so you're looking for a thin, blue/white, almost invisible spark that you can almost feel as well as hear, but not almost not be able to see in bright sunlight. This is a healthy spark. A fat, yellow spark that just makes a boring little tick is no good. Also check the leads and spark plug rubbers for splits and cracks.
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Darwin

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Re: Hi
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2019, 05:53:24 AM »

Thanks upside down,

Yeah I replaced the petcock because the old one was bad.

If the vacuum line is connected the bike runs for 20sec and eventually dies like itís over fueled or under sparked.

With the vacuum line disconnected it runs much nicer until of coarse the bowls are drained then dies.

I have just found that the fuel gauge sender wires have melted and followed it into the loom. There is an entire length of black with white line wire melted ( crappy wiring is one of four all joined) and a yellow one. Is the black and white one an earth ? I notice it goes into the cdi eventually perhaps this could be causing a timing or spark issue.
I will try to find a diagram and take a look.

I do like the bike all the same , itís cheap and I am not afraid to mess around with it too much.

Thanks for the tip on parts supplier

Cheers

Cheers
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umop-ǝpisdn

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Re: Hi
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2019, 09:19:28 AM »

G'day Darwin,

So yes. The black wire with the white trace is the earth wire.

Here's a link to the workshop manual for the carby era GT650s:

http://hyosung.hu/download/pdf/data/service-manual/gt650%20carburetor%20service%20manual.rar

There's a wiring diagram towards the back.

As for the yellow wire, in that area, I can't think what it might be. The headlight/tail light main power is yellow, but then so too are the three stator wires. Going into the CDI you've got a bunch of wires, but I've never seen one in the flesh and can't say as to a yellow wire there. My bike is the EFI model and I've never worked that closely with a carb model.

The earth on these bikes is utter rubbish, have a look at the battery and trace the earth wire back to the loom for an example. ...that's it by the way. That's all that is earthing the whole loom.

If you plan to own this bike, I would suggest several wiring and electrical upgrages. Starting with the big $ one, the reg/rec. It doesn't HAVE to be big $, but if you plan to own it, then I would strongly suggest the Shindengen FH020AA, as found in the Yamaha liter bike class (R1's, MT10, FJR1200/1300, etc). You might be able to buy a cheap one used, but keep in mind that a brand new one will cost you about AU$200 landed from roadstercycle.com. Do not bother with the Hyosung wiring adaptor. Waste of time as it doesn't solve the problem.
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I used to be a sensitive, new age guy, but times have changed and now I am more of a caring, understanding, ninties type.

Darwin

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Re: Hi
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2019, 12:00:20 PM »

Thanks mate

The yellow wire goes to the fuel pickup with the earth I have found.

The front coil pack has tested faulty so will I will replace them both and see how it goes. Yeah I have read the rec/reg is a must upgrade so will likely upgrade.

I think the hyosung is a worthy bike and will be looking to upgrade to a 650 after this. They look awesome sound great with the right exhaust mods and you can strip and assemble without worrying to much.

Thanks for the help mate

Hopefully this site keeps going and hyosung keeps getting better

Are they ever going to release a litre bike ?
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Darwin

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Re: Hi
« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2019, 11:16:44 AM »

Hey

So I discovered my problem and it is all fixed now !

It turns out I am just an idiot, had the idle screw adjusted so far in the butterfly had exposed the three holes above it from the mid circuit and was flooding the bike on idle.

So ... if your bike is running rough for a seperate reason and you find yourself increasing the idle screw to try and help it, once you discover what was really wrong remember to adjust it back so it is only idling as per the pilot circuit

Cheers
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spit051261

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Re: Hi
« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2019, 11:35:56 AM »

Hey

So I discovered my problem and it is all fixed now !

It turns out I am just an idiot, had the idle screw adjusted so far in the butterfly had exposed the three holes above it from the mid circuit and was flooding the bike on idle.

So ... if your bike is running rough for a seperate reason and you find yourself increasing the idle screw to try and help it, once you discover what was really wrong remember to adjust it back so it is only idling as per the pilot circuit

Cheers
Very good advice  :)
Glad you got it sorted .
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